You can rejuvenate the skin – you just need to know how
Fine wrinkles, deep folds and flabbiness – all signs of inevitable aging of the skin are the result of violations of its structure, which are effectively prevented by a number of therapeutic approaches that stimulate the formation of new collagen.
Based on the results of dozens of studies conducted for almost 20 years mainly by dermatologists at the University of Michigan, scientists at this university, working under the guidance of Dean of the Faculty of Dermatology John J. Voorhees, explain the mechanisms that ensure the effectiveness of three methods to prevent skin aging: topical application of retinoic acid preparations, surface restoration using a carbon dioxide laser and injections of hyaluronic acid.
All these techniques improve the appearance of the skin and its ability to withstand shocks and tears by stimulating the synthesis of collagen, the main protein of connective tissue that provides skin elasticity. Collagen, synthesized by the cells of the dermis (the skin itself, located under the thin covering layer of the epidermis), is contained in large quantities in young skin. The authors claim that the violation of the dense elastic structure of the dermis is an extremely important factor in skin aging, which is much easier to deal with than with possible genetic causes of this process.
The main producers of collagen are skin cells – fibroblasts. Researchers have demonstrated that an increase in the amount of collagen, according to the feedback principle, creates a favorable microenvironment that promotes the restoration of fibroblasts and the activation of collagen synthesis.
Collagen is formed and destroyed in the dermis. Its fibers form a kind of framework that supports skin cells. The authors compare the young collagen-rich skin with a dense and elastic new mattress, which, as the springs and foam rubber wear out, loses elasticity, becomes soft and pushes through in certain places. The same thing happens to the skin: due to a decrease in the amount of collagen and the accumulation of its fragmented molecules, it becomes sluggish and wrinkled.
The process of collagen destruction is very complex. One of the components of this process are active oxygen radicals associated with many aspects of aging. These extremely active compounds stimulate the production of collagen–destroying enzyme collagenase. Under the action of collagenase, fibroblasts lose their normal elongated shape, which, in turn, stimulates the synthesis of destruction enzymes. The skin of people over 80 years old contains 4 times more destroyed collagen than the skin of 20-year-olds, which corresponds not only to the poor appearance of the skin, but also its susceptibility to various damage.
The only way to prevent skin aging is to break this vicious circle. Based on the results of earlier and recent studies, the authors state that at least three of the currently available methods effectively prevent skin aging.
These methods include injections of drugs containing hyaluronic acid, a polymer consisting of disaccharide units of D–glucuronic acid and D-N-acetylglucosamine residues. This biopolymer plays an important role in maintaining the elasticity of the extracellular matrix of various organs. The introduction of hyaluronic acid into the skin stimulates the restoration of the normal elongated shape of fibroblasts, enhances the synthesis of new collagen and prevents its destruction.
Another available method is the application of products containing retinol or retinoic acid – vitamin A derivatives that are part of many cosmetic products. The authors found that this significantly reduces the severity of wrinkles and skin coarsening in the elderly due to the synthesis of new collagen.
The last of the methods recommended by the researchers is the restoration of the skin surface using a carbon dioxide laser. The effectiveness of this method is due to the removal of the aging dermis, after which an active synthesis of new collagen occurs during a three-week recovery period.
Voorhees and his colleagues claim that they conduct their research independently of the manufacturers of the products they test and use funding provided by the US National Institutes of Health and the University of Michigan. They hope that the results they have obtained will help people make the right choice and consciously navigate the numerous offers of the multibillion-dollar rejuvenation industry. In addition, they want to provide practitioners with reliable information about existing methods to combat the symptoms of aging.
Article by Gary J. Fisher et al. "Looking Older: Fibroblast Collapse and Therapeutic Implications" published in the May issue of Archives of Dermatology.
Portal "Eternal youth" www.vechnayamolodost.ru based on the materials of ScienceDaily
29.05.2008